Venice, the most known romantic city, where the turism invades every season the “calli” and “campi” that lead to San Marco. But, if we leave behind the crowded places we can discover the convivial soul of the city, the Venice of Bacari.
Let’s take a step back to explain well the word to who is not too familiar with venetian dialect: a bacaro is a typical tavern where you can taste, strictly standing, un cichéto e un’ombra. Un cichéto is like a little snack (we may say finger food, but it would undermine all that the word bring with it) combined to an ombra that is a glass of wine, white or red.
That is the atmosphere that you can feel in Cantine del vino già Schiavi, known like Bottegon, unmissable stop in a tour of the bacari looking for the real venetian spirit. An ancient tavern opened in the late 19th century in one of the most characteristic places of the city, in the Dorsoduro sestriere, near the Ponte dell’Accademia and not too far from a Squero, a yard where even today Gondola are made. Mr. Sisto Gastaldi bought the place in 1945, and lately the son Lino took over.
In the 1960 Lino met his future wife, Alessandra (Sandra) De Respinis, who will help to manage the Bottegon dedicating to the realization of cichèti. The curiosity and continuous experimentation brought her to create approximately 70 original recipes designed “following the seasons, the colour and what mind and heart suggest”.
For who desires an ombra, on the shelves can find over 500 wine labels to combine with the creation of Bottegon.
One of the most famous cichéti is the “brie and nettle cream” enriched with Parmigiano Reggiano DOP and pepper. Another original idea is the cichéto with “misticanza, ricotta layer,grated tuna bottarga and dried tomatoes”.
The list would be very long, it’s way easier to consult “Cicchettario”, a recipe book where has been written the best recipes of this bacaro. Sandra in this book tells some of her secrets: “Doing very good cichéti is not difficult, you just have to follow few basic rules: the bread has to be crispy freshly baked cut I slices of 1 and a half centimeters”; always fresh and quality – Sandra love say about ingredients – and you can fix flavors on your taste but reminds: “Do not be stingy, one thing is culinary trends and another is eating!”
And if you want to try to prepare a cicheto homemade, here is one of the original recipes of the "Cichettario" book by Sandra:
*SMOKED SWORDFISH AND ZUCCHINI- Spread a little bit of mayo on the bread, lay a slice of smoked swordfish, strew julienne cutted zucchini on top and sprinkle some pink pepper with few drops of balsamic vinegar. In combination with an ombra of Greco di Tufo
Giulia Bassetto
